Some of these rings recall the past, from ancient-inspired designs to the Arts Deco and Nouveau. Others look ahead, with stark, elegant lines ready to carry the wearer into the next millennium.
The Setting Scene
The Tiffany setting still captures the hearts of loving couples around the world. "Four- and six-prong Tiffany settings are the dominant force in engagement ring sales," says Edward Zohrabian, president of Universal Fine Jewelry, Los Angeles, CA. This setting holds the diamond aloft in a timeless showcase unaffected by changing fads.
Two-prong and tension-set mountings are more of a fashion and designer statement than a trend. "Buying a diamond is a sizable investment, and these settings tend to make people nervous for fear of losing the diamond," says Michael O'Connor, director of corporate marketing for Frederick Goldman, New York City. Still, these rings – when done by knowledgeable designers and manufacturers, can hold a diamond securely while meeting consumers' demand for modern designs.
Another contemporary look – the partial bezel setting – is an elegant design that's growing in popularity. "The bezel in any variation is quickly gaining interest and generating sales," says A.J. Tosyali, vice president of Benchmark, Tuscaloosa, AL. Partial bezels – along with offering a fresh look – allow more light to pass through the diamond than a full bezel does, he says.
Other styles driving sales today are sparkling pavé settings, sleek channel settings and shanks with filigree or tiny stones added for interest.
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Heavy Metal
Platinum remains the fastest-growing metal in bridal jewelry, with white gold riding on its coattails. "Sales of our platinum line have doubled in the past year," says Isabella Schonwetter, vice president of marketing for Leiberfarb Inc., Orange, NJ.
Despite the popularity of platinum, the majority of bridal jewelry sales are still yellow gold. And with gold's price slide the past two years, it's even more on consumers' minds.
For anyone interested in more than gold but afraid to take the platinum plunge, mixed-metal jewelry has become a popular option. "Platinum and 18k rings are particularly popular among men," says Lisa Christopolous, vice president of Barnett Robinson, New York City. Some manufacturers see this as an interim step to consumers becoming comfortable with all-platinum rings.
Cut & Color
Princess, emerald-cut and other square diamonds are making inroads among today's older, more sophisticated brides. In fact, Universal Fine Jewelry's Zohrabian predicts the princess will be the most powerful cut for 1999: "The square is having a tremendous impact on jewelry, especially with the popularity of channel and invisible settings."